Technical Photographic Exercise  

Photo 1: 1/2 4.0F shot. 

Keeping the ISO on manual keeps you in charge of bulb settings, if the image turns out bright this has resulted in over exposed image like this for example or ISO settings at 1600 max, the competition of this was due to shutter introducing the light in. However the difference with photo three with the exposure is that the room is relatively bright anyway but adding more light into the lens results in the image being over exposed extremely and not being able to completely see the photo. 

Photo 2: 1/1000  4.0F shot.

Both photo one & photo two are exactly the same image with different settings, this photo shows the shutter speed being faster when capturing the image so effectively disabling the chance for the light to reach the lens resulting in the image being very dark than usual therefore the main reason for these settings is to take sharp photographs of tolerable objects under normal light conditions. 

Photo 3: Extremely low shutter speed (5 seconds)

Shutter speed along with the aperture of the lens (which is the gap where the light shine through) determines the amount of light that reaches the sensor. The shutter speed changes to the movement of the objects appearing the picture therefore putting the camera onto manual you can manage the shutter personally to what you want the picture to be. Short shutter speeds such as number one photo can be used to freeze frame fast moving objects seen in your lens however very long shutter speeds are intentionally used to blur an object which i'll explain later. Camera shutters often include a few other settings for the use of long bulb exposures for example this photo I kept the shutter open long enough to capture the light in the photograph to cause the light being constantly followed until close. 

Photo 4: 4.OF shot.

This photo has focussed more on the zone focus of the lens, meaning this photo with the setting on 4.0F determines the feet and aperture is away from the subject. Also another meaning the zone in where it's acceptable sharpness. I took it baring in the mind the centre of attention who will be in focus is the cat's face making everything else blurred, slightly zoomed increased the amount of blur that was shown other than the centre of the image. 

Photo 5: 7.OF shot.

In a similar area I took this image, with the aperture being further away from the subject it concentrates more of the background of the image. From the previous image being 4.OF away changing it to 7.0F shows the closer to the image you are the more blurred out it will be.  

Photo 6: 1/150, Photo 7: 1/30: 

Photo six and seven show the shutter speeds I tried to get comfortable with the settings, as much as i explained the shutter speeds above in the paragraph photo three. These photos you can really tell how slow and fast the shutters speeds are. Every little drop of water frozen to show the speed the shutter takes to calculate the object speed to be captured.

Photo 8: Night Flash 

This photo was to show the separation of the subject from the background and the rest of the image, i captured the image is dark blacked out, manually using the flash to in the area to keep the subject the first point of interest. 

Photo 9: Above shot, Photo 10: Below:

Above and below shots is to create depth within the subject, making them or the object very powerful, strong or a hero about them as for the person or object being low creates bigger forms and sense of scale towards them and other objects around it.  

Photo 11: Breaking Edges

The technique is to keep the picture moving and realistic but cutting part of the main object out of the picture frame to let the audience